Thursday, March 4, 2010

Another Disturbing Ripple in My Universe

My mother and I are planning a trip to Warsaw in mid-June. We will visit the Jewish cemetery and try to find my great-grandfather's grave. (He died before the war, so he probably is lucky enough to have a burial place unlike my grandfather's sisters and mother.) We will see the few remnants of the wall of the Warsaw ghetto. We will visit the Jewish Historical Institute. We will do a records search. We will pass by the address where my grandfather's family owned a butcher shop and/or lived.

We will also go to Treblinka.

I always assumed that my grandfather's family died in Auschwitz, if they even lived to be deported from the ghetto. But, one of the dangers of Holocaust hagiography is that the fame of Auschwitz dwarfs reality. Deportations began in 1942, and when Warsaw's ghetto was liquidated in the spring of 1943, everyone left was sent to Treblinka, 2 hours outside of Warsaw in an isolated forest. There was no work at Treblinka. People died within an hour of their arrival.

Husband has a friend who lives in Warsaw who is very kindly helping me arrange my trip. He sent me a link to the Treblinka Museum. One of the things that fascinated me when I first learned about the Treblinka site is how noncommercial it is. Auschwitz, to me, is tourist attraction at this point. Tour groups go, people gape at the convent built on site, they exclaim over the signs proclaiming how much the Poles suffered* because it was initially built for Polish political prisoners. Treblinka was completely destroyed by the Nazis, so there's nothing "fun" to see. It is a sober monument to the 800,000 Jews and thousands of Gypsies and Romani murdered there.

Anyway, as I read the museum's website, I was taken aback by this statement:
The memorial should be visited with due seriousness and respect.
Within the area of the museum it is forbidden to bring dogs, smoke or eat ice cream.
Damn, I can't eat ice cream there? Well, I guess I'll have to pack ham and cheese pierogies and chocolate kolacky.

I hope that this was a translation error and in Polish it says, "no eating." Otherwise, WHAT THE FUCK? How weird is the focus on ice cream? Even weirder, it reminds me of a fucked up Hasidic monument I visited in Israel:


I mean, they are not the same thing, but the utter randomness of what is forbidden strikes me as similar. (In case the photo does not appear, it is a sign that says that it is forbidden for women to dance at this site.)

Anyway, it is going to be an intense trip. I believe we will also take a trip to Krakow, as Husband's friend recommended.

*Oh yeah, and some Jews, gypsies, and homosexuals died there, too. But whatever. (This is written in the vein of signage at Auschwitz, so pardon my bitter glibness.)

7 comments:

  1. auschwitz was still a somber place when i went in the summer of 2000. i found nothing touristy about it. then again, it's not like there were hordes of people when we were there, just the 30 of us from my class and our guide.
    krakow was also an interesting city to visit and we walked through the warsaw ghetto as well.

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  2. Were you allowed to eat ice cream, though? :)

    Seriously, I am glad to have a first hand account from you. Obviously, I have never been there, but that's what other people told me about their experiences. It really turned me off. Regardless of whether the masses go or not, I'm really turned off by the convent and the signage, so I am going to skip it. But I can see how other people without crazy biases are able to find it meaningful, and I do think it is an important monument.

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  3. I'm really looking forward to hearing about your trip. I would love to go visit the different camps (in my 10 year travel goals). But, I have to say, It'll never be the same for me because I don't have the emotional familial ties to the area...but any human with feelings and emotions would have to be terribly moved by the entire experience. I'm so glad you're making the trip with your mom!

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  4. "People died within an hour of their arrival."

    It still stuns me. People put other people on a train, took them off, and killed them. It just makes my brain short out.

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  5. Me, too. That's probably why ice cream is not allowed. Sigh.

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  6. I am galled that I have to make a donation of 2 PLN (whatever that is)in order to use the toilet! Whatever I deposit in the toilet IS my donation!! Harumph!!

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  7. Perhaps there is an ice cream vendor right outside the front gate? Imagine it... a hot summer day in Poland and every damn visitor to the museum is dripping ice cream all over the place. If only they would allow dogs, the ice cream wouldn't be as big an issue.

    We've made some friends from Poland since we've been in the UK and they tell us Krakow in summer is beautiful.

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